Wow, blow me away. That’s just awesome.


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Nice, very nice!

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HO Lee Fuk!! .

How'd you get that little corner on there?

 

LOL - I learned that it's far better to cut that corner triangle BEFORE I cut out the inside of the forks - more wood for the router to lay flat on so it doesn't tilt & mess up the cut. I just use a small laminate trimming router with a straight bit to rough it out & use a really sharp chisel to straighten out the inlay line. Toughest part is going through the test cuts to make sure the router bit cut depth is perfect.

 

Do you have a group shot of the forks you have made to date? I carve birds by hand, no electricity...I would feel like I was in a dentist office if I used the electric tools that carvers winning awards/ribbons use. In any event, when you see a group of someone's carvings, together you get a feel for the craftsman that made them...so unless you are selling them like hotcakes at a church pancake supper, show us a grouping of your wood working skills....feel free.

 

Look, I absolutely hate a Scout platform, just as much as I do clips or screws...but, your wood working skills are advanced; the fork you post pictures of, are absolutely beautiful....I mean beautiful enough to hang on a Christmas tree.

 

Another beauty! Do you have any tips or tricks for avoiding tear out on end-grain when you're using the router?

 

Yep - I know exactly what you mean ... tearout is unavoidable, I've tried climb cutting to minimize it, doesn't seem to help, especially with the exotic hardwoods. What I do is leave an extra 1/8" or so on either side of my glue ups and after I route the roundover, I just use a stationary disc sander to sand off the extra 1/8" which always has some tearout.

 

Hey Slide-Easy ... thanks & here's the pile - a few have moved away from home, but there is a method to my madness. I've tried various fork widths, grip sizes / shapes, with / without the aiming corner to come up with what works best for my target shooting - best part is with the lead weighting in the grips, I shoot them better than the factory scout LT. But the bottom line is building these has gotten me back into woodworking after many years of slacking off ... so I'm thankful for that.

 

Very nice that you have changed so that fork tips are 90 degrees.

Do not like the original because it is not a 90 degree corner.

 

What a beautiful grouping of your craftsmanship. I have been chasing the perfect fork for almost 10 years. I think I may have found The Holy Grail.

 

That frame looks really ergonomic ! It's good when you finally find what works best for you ... I've got the frame dimensions pretty much worked out now, and I'm working more on band set / ammo size combinations that work best lately...

 

I would never have given this style of fork a second glance on a flat computer screen, but when I put my hands and my set up on it, something came together. It was like magic. First three shots hit a 1" spinner at 66'. This is a prototype cut out of a thick slab of jade g10, so that I can shoot it and make any changes before the custom piece is started. It's final incarnation will be a purpleheart/micarta/g10 combo. This is one bad-a$$ slingshot. It's repeated accuracy, for my style of shooting is almost boring...but not really.

 

Wow - impressive ! So when you say "cut out" of a slab of G10 ... does this mean you do the profiling manually or is it done with equipment ? Can't wait to see the final version ...

 

No Sir, this is the work of a master 'slingshot maker' named Bill Hays. I just carve birds...I leave 'slingshot making' to real professionals.

 

Ah yes .... Bill's designs at PP are legendary !

 

Beautiful!
If you don't mind me asking, what's your retention mechanism for the flat bands?

 

Thanks - I just buy the band clamps from simple shot - I'm always fiddling with band length, so it makes the whole band changing thing so easy ...

https://simple-shot.com/accessories/2a20001x/flipclip-x-for-scout-xt